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• Isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%)
• Acetone (for surfaces only)
• Citrus-based resin remover or adhesive remover
• Paper towels or microfiber cloths
• Gloves and protective eyewear
• Plastic scraper or putty knife
• Warm soapy water
Uncured resin is much easier to clean than cured resin. Act fast.
From Skin
Wash immediately with warm soapy water. Avoid using solvents directly on skin. If needed, use a citrus-based hand cleaner.
From Tools or Surfaces
Wipe the excess resin with a paper towel, then clean using isopropyl alcohol or acetone. Always test a small area first to avoid surface damage.
Once epoxy hardens, you’ll need more effort and patience.
From Surfaces
Use a heat gun to soften the resin, then gently scrape it off with a plastic scraper. Clean any remaining residue with acetone or a specialty epoxy remover.
Sanding: For thick layers or stubborn residue on durable surfaces like wood or metal, sanding can be effective. Start with coarse grit sandpaper (e.g., 80-120 grit) and progressively move to finer grits (e.g., 220+ grit) for a smoother finish. Always wear a dust mask/respirator when sanding epoxy!
Scraping: On very hard surfaces like glass or metal, a sharp razor blade or glass scraper held at a low angle can sometimes lift cured resin sheets. Extreme caution is needed to avoid scratching the surface or personal injury. Plastic scrapers are safer for most other surfaces.
From Skin
Do not try to peel or scrape. Soak in warm soapy water and gently exfoliate. If irritation occurs, stop and consult a professional.
From Fabric or Clothing
Cured resin is often permanent. You can try freezing the fabric to harden the resin, then crack it off gently. A solvent may help remove the rest, but always test for discoloration.
Commercial Epoxy Removers: Several products are specifically formulated to dissolve or soften cured epoxy resin. These are often more effective (and sometimes less aggressive to underlying surfaces) than acetone but can be more expensive. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions meticulously and test on an inconspicuous area first. Look for products containing methylene chloride or N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP), but be aware these are strong chemicals requiring strict safety precautions.
Ventilation is Crucial: Always work in a well-ventilated area or use a respirator rated for organic vapors when using solvents like acetone or isopropyl alcohol, and especially when sanding cured resin. Fumes can be harmful.
Skin Protection: Wear nitrile gloves (latex may not provide sufficient protection). Avoid prolonged skin contact with uncured resin and hardener, as sensitization can develop over time.
Eye Protection: Safety glasses are essential to prevent splashes.
Read MSDS/SDS: Consult the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) or Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for your specific epoxy product and any solvents you plan to use for detailed safety information and first aid measures.
Mixing Cups & Sticks: Use dedicated, disposable mixing cups and stir sticks. Silicone cups are reusable and easier to clean.
Mold Release: Apply a suitable mold release agent before pouring resin into molds for significantly easier demolding.
Safe Disposal: Never pour leftover uncured resin, hardener, or solvent-contaminated cleaning materials down the drain or into regular trash. Cured resin scraps can usually be disposed of with regular waste, but check your local hazardous waste disposal regulations for liquids, solvents, and uncured components. Collect used paper towels/rags soaked in solvents in a sealed metal container labeled for hazardous waste disposal.
Find your local hazardous waste disposal facility via the EPA website.