I. Preparatory Work

1.Determine the Table Dimensions
First, clarify the table’s purpose (dining table, desk, bar counter, etc.), then decide on dimensions based on space requirements.
Pro tip: Leave a 2-3 cm (approximately 0.8-1.2 inches) margin for error to avoid under sizing after cutting or sanding.

Notes:

• Avoid wood with large areas of rot or insect damage (small defects can be filled with resin later);
• If the wood has straight edges (e.g., saw marks), hide them by joining pieces to preserve the natural aesthetic.

• "River" area: Gaps between wood slabs (simulating the river);
• Under the wood: Gap between the wood and mold base (≈0.3 cm/0.12 inches, to prevent wood from absorbing moisture if resin leaks);
• Edge gaps: Gaps between the wood and mold sides (≈0.3 cm/0.12 inches).
  Example: For a "river" 100 cm (39.4 inches) long, 10 cm (3.9 inches) wide, and 5 cm (2 inches) high, usage is approximately 5 liters (100×10×5=5000 cm³=5 liters/169 oz). Add 10%-20% extra to account for other gaps.

• Minimum pour thickness ≥2 cm (0.8 inches, to avoid excessive heat buildup during single pours);
• Anti-yellowing, self-degassing, and high transparency;
• High hardness after curing with moderate flexibility (to adapt to wood’s expansion/contraction and prevent cracking).
  Recommendation: Our DEEP POUR EPOXY RESIN is designed for large-scale casting. It easily handles the volume and height required for "river tables" (up to 10.2 cm/4 inches). With balanced hardness and flexibility after curing, it adapts well to wood movement, preventing cracks. Its high transparency and gloss enhance the "river’s" crystal-clear appearance, complementing natural-edged wood beautifully. Built-in self-degassing properties reduce bubble issues during mixing and pouring.

• Liquid dyes: Provide uniform color, ideal for solid-color "rivers" (e.g., blue, black);
• Powder pigments: Create gradients or textures (e.g., "cloud patterns" by stirring with a toothpick), but ensure thorough mixing to avoid settling.

• Cutting: Track saw/circular saw (for wood), angle grinder (with wire wheel, for cleaning wood);
• Sanding: Sander (100-320 grit sandpaper), polisher;
• Pouring: Mixing buckets, electric stirrer (paddle mixer), propane torch (for bubble removal);
• Mold: Melamine boards (non-stick), sealant, screws;
• Others: Release agent, CA glue (for filling gaps), threaded inserts (for table legs), nitrile gloves (non-stick).

II. Key Considerations

• Low temperatures (<15°C/59°F): Resin may crystallize (solidify). Submerge the container in warm water (<50°C/122°F) for 1 hour to resolve;
• High temperatures (>30°C/86°F): Excessive exotherm during curing may cause cracking or discoloration. Use fans for cooling and avoid direct sunlight.

• Stirring slowly (to avoid trapping air), scraping the bucket bottom along the edges, and mixing for at least 4 minutes;
• Letting the mixture sit for 15 minutes to allow bubbles to rise, then quickly passing a propane torch (10 cm/4 inches from the surface) to eliminate surface bubbles;

• Sealing the wood in advance (see steps below) to prevent air from escaping.

III. Production Process

• Adjust slab orientation/angle so natural edges form a smooth "river" curve; avoid aligning straight edges;
• Incorporate wood defects (e.g., holes) into the "river" design—resin filling will make them look intentional.

• Use an angle grinder (with wire wheel) to remove bark, soft wood, or rot, exposing solid hardwood;
• Fill small gaps/holes with CA glue, let dry, then sand smooth.

• The resin will be semi-cured (tacky but not hard), sealing internal air (reducing bubbles) and bonding perfectly with subsequent pours (stronger than bonding to fully cured resin).

• Size: 2 cm/0.8 inches larger than the total wood dimensions (for margin), and 2 cm/0.8 inches taller than the wood thickness (to prevent overflow);
• Sealing: Apply sealant to all joints, smooth with your finger (like caulking a bathtub), and let dry overnight (to prevent leaks);
• Securing: Connect boards with screws, pre-drilling screw holes for easy demolding later.

• If the "river" thickness exceeds 2 inches (5.1 cm), pour in 2-3 layers, waiting 24 hours between layers (to avoid excessive heat);
• After the first pour, use a torch to remove bubbles, then place the wood slabs (press lightly to prevent floating);
• For subsequent layers, mix resin + pigment in ratio, pour slowly, and repeat bubble removal.

• Remove screws, tap mold sides gently with a rubber mallet to loosen;
• Insert wooden wedges between the mold base and wood, pry slowly to avoid damaging edges.

• Leveling: Start sanding with 100 grit, progressing to 240 and 320 grit until smooth;
• Coating: Apply wood wax oil as a base (for adhesion), let dry, then apply topcoat (for durability/stain resistance), and polish to a shine.

• Drill holes: Position holes for legs (depth slightly less than the leg screw length to avoid the tabletop); then clean debris from holes and test - fit leg screws before resin pouring.
• Install threaded inserts: Apply a small amount of epoxy to the holes, screw in inserts with an Allen wrench (for stronger hold);
• Attach legs, check for level, and adjust as needed.

IV. Troubleshooting and Fixes

• Surface bubbles: Use a torch again before curing;
• Deep bubbles: If cured, sand the surface flat and apply a thin resin layer (0.5 cm/0.2 inches) to cover.

• Minor leaks: Quickly seal with sealant, let dry, then continue pouring;
• Major leaks: Stop pouring, disassemble the mold, reseal, and clean leaked resin (use alcohol for uncured resin).

• Cause: Inadequate sealing or temperature fluctuations during curing;
• Fix: Inject CA glue into gaps, let cure, sand smooth, then apply a thin resin layer.

• Sand repeatedly with 320 grit, or apply a small amount of resin (0.3 cm/0.12 inches) locally, let cure, then sand flat.

• If pigment settles, stir gently with a toothpick when the resin is semi-cured (≈12 hours) to create natural patterns;
• If too light, apply a thin tinted resin layer after sanding (test the color first).